July 18, 2008 - A Vacation in Malawi
I am happily writing this from my “home” away from home in Lilongwe, Malawi. I am now at Heuglin’s Lodge, the place I called home for 3 glorious weeks last summer. Because I am now paying my own way, I can only afford to stay here for 2 nights. I am enjoying every minute of my time here. This morning I had a HOT shower that came from water ABOVE my head. I had an omlette with CHEESE. I had coffee because I was not afraid of having to go pee. I have a TV and a fridge in my room here. In Ntcheu where I am “putting up” I have no TV or fridge.
Last night I was informed that I need to pay K5000 to extend my stay here beyond 30 days. I was so furious! That is $35 I could have really u sed elsewhere. Fortunately I was able to obtain a ride into the city to update the stamp and am now permitted to remain in Malawi.
Yesterday I went to the airport, the logical place one would go if she wanted to change her flight. After paying K 3.5 to travel to the airport, I was told that the airport is not the place for such activities. I needed to go into the city to the KLM office. At the KLM office I was at first turned away because the employees were eating their lunch and told me they couldn’t focus properly with “hot heads” from hunger. I told them I’d wait the 25 minutes until 1:30 when their lunch was finished. They told me they’d likely be making a lot o f noise and I’d be disturbed. I reassured them that their noise would not disturb me at which point they decided to check my flights. After all of that, all flights before my departure date are booked. As it stands now I am still returning to TO on August 28 late in the evening.
This is the final chapter of the story which began in Amsterdam three weeks ago. The fare rules on my ticket stated that I could make one change free of charge on my return ticket after I departed Canada. I had many hours to spare in Amsterdam so I decided it was sensible to make the change at that time. Unfortunately I had only my itinerary and not my e-ticket. The KLM reps couldn’t find my fare rules on their computer and would not change my ticket. I called my travel agent who told me I should get her a fax # and she’d fax the e-ticket. She didn’t seem to realize that fax machines are not abundant, not to mention not reliable, here in Malawi.
Upon my arrival in Malawi I began my search for a fax machine. Finally I found one. I called the travel agent and gave her the fax number with little hope of the fax actually arriving in Malawi. This was on a Thursday. On Friday I went to the office which houses the fax machine only to be told no fax had arrived. Knowing I had only 4 business days until my trip into the city (the airport) I began to feel anxious. I went to the telephone bureau where I was allowed to check email in the vain hopes of finding the e-ticket. Of course none had been emailed. After purchasing a $3.00 phone card I called the agent and told her the fax had not come. I asked if she’d please email it. She said she’d try but was not sure if it was still in the computer.
On Monday I returned to the fax machine where I found the fax – which had arrived on Thursday but the people working in the office didn’t know about it. I now had the coveted e-ticket which also had safely arrived via email. Too bad, the flights are booked full!
Last night I met 4 teachers who are here for the same purpose I was here last year. I had been in communication with one of them for several months. She gave to me a generous donation that her brother and his family had asked her to give to my orphans. Another woman gave me a ton of clothing for the children. I was very touched by their faith in my project.
Every Malawian I meet and tell my story to says thank you to me. It seems as if I am doing something they think is very important. It makes me feel good.
Money for start up has gone quickly. I am now wondering if the K1000 for a table and chairs is too luxurious and should have been saved for next year. I have paid K7200 ($60) for maintenance of the building, plus K8800 for reconnection of the water. I still have to pay to put a roof on the kitchen. A thatched roof will cost about $1000 ($75) where as a tin one will cost 7 times more. For now, I’m opting for grass. Maybe a goal for next year can be a tin roof.
The cooks seem to be enjoying their jobs. I am concerned that they are cooking too much. I’ve decided they should come to Mabvuto’s house on a weekly basis to collect maize, beans and oil. They need to see how much I expect them to use in a week. At the rate they are going I will run out of food by January.
The children have warmed up to me. They sang and danced for me the other day. One of them watches me all the time and speaks to me when I speak to her. She seems rather bold. She has AIDS at the age of 9. I was told her parents died of TB which is obviously untrue. Only one caregiver of the 8 I spoke to told me the child had been orphaned due to AIDS. The rest told me stories of hiccups, headaches, malaria, TB and unknown causes. I suspect AIDS is the case for at least 6 of the children. To my knowledge only Maggie has AIDS herself. She gets ARVs for free from the local hospital.
Next week I plan to visit their homes. I think it will be shocking to see how they live.
Back to my vacation …
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